Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
